Beauty

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Fake cosmetics products flood market

HANOI – Authorities will push for more checks on the cosmetics industry to be listed in the revised Investment Law, Ha Noi Moi (New Ha Noi) newspaper quoted a representative from the Drug Administration of Viet Nam.

Up to 50 per cent of cosmetics in the Viet Nam market place are reported to be counterfeits of well-known brands, according to statistics from the Viet Nam unit on intellectual property.

The unit said that low-quality and fake cosmetics posed a threat to customer’s health.

Many smuggling and illegal cosmetics factories were detected recently.

The most recent was detected by the Ha Noi’s Market Watch’s Unit 14 last Saturday.

The watch unit inspected five stores of the Xuan Thuy Cosmetics Ltd, confiscating about 100,000 cosmetics and related products. Market Watch sent samples of confiscated goods to police for testing.

Last year, 164,000 cosmetics products in Ha Noi were found to be of uncertain origin, according to Market Watch.

The department attributed the large number of low-quality and fake cosmetics to the smuggling situation in the country’s border area and the high profit from cosmetics trading.

It also blamed the low administrative fine and overlapping management.

Ha Noi’s Market Watch has advised women to be careful in selecting products and avoid doubtful outlets.

Ministry of Health Circular 06/2011/TT-BYT regulates that individuals and enterprises trading cosmetics must have a business registration licence and must ensure that the goods meet regulations set by the ASEAN Cosmetics Directive.

- See more at: http://women.asiaone.com/women/beauty/fake-cosmetics-products-flood-market#sthash.X5ZNxIuP.dpuf

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8 Korean Makeup Trends to Try Now

Get The Gloss’ Makeup Maniac columnist Anna Hunter dishes the dirt on the trends from Korea we should all be coveting 

South Korea is fast becoming a makeup and beauty mecca, and it’s about more than the BB cream boom. For a peek into the cosmetic crystal ball, go east…

Technology trends emerging from Asia are nothing new, but do you associate Seoul with chic, innovative developments in the makeup arena? For la maquillage à la mode we traditionally look to Paris, or one of the other three “fashion” cities, but western consumers, and by proxy brands, are increasingly taking their cue from South Korea when it comes to making up. Fierce competition between brands, demanding customers, large-scale investment in skincare and cosmetics science, not to mention a lack of squeamishness around ingredients such as pig collagen and starfish extract, has resulted in a booming beauty market that now exports more than it imports and is the 12th largest producer of cosmetics in the world, according to the Korea Tourism Office. With streets, nay, neighbourhoods, devoted to blushers (HEAVEN), mascaras and all manner of makeup and skincare, it’s product paradise, as makeup artist Kenneth Soh confirms:

“You don’t even need to leave the airport to spend hours perusing all the products available. Packs of sheet masks with every ingredient you can imagine from snail secretion to charcoal, makeup products that do everything you might want or even things you didn’t know you wanted. I had a few hours to kill at Incheon Airport and I spent all of it browsing and topping up my kit! You can find everything there. The real problem is trying to decipher which is a gimmick and which ones actually work for you.”

On that note, we’ve done the hard work for you. Here are the eight Korean beauty trends to buy into:

CUSHIONS

Not the kind you scatter all over the lounge, but a soft, springy sponge that’s soaked in a light, cooling and protective base within a portable compact. A cushion base is almost always saturated with high SPF sunscreen, to appeal to Korean women who both take care of their skin scrupulously (this is the country that invented the 10 step skincare regime after all) and also aim to maintain an even, pigmentation-free complexion. The finish is almost always dewy and veil like; Kenneth emphasises that that’s how our Seoul sisters roll:

“The typical Korean aesthetic is all about youth, not the schoolgirl youth of Japan but a slightly more sophisticated version that doesn’t alienate and come across as ageist. It’s near impossible to see a matte finish in any Korean campaign; every model, celebrity and spokesmodel have radiant and glowing complexions.”

Get one for yourself with Lancôme’s newly launched Miracle Cushion liquid cushion compact, £29.50. Applied with fingers or the enclosed ‘pad’ applicator, it glides on seamlessly, has a featherlight texture and offers skincare benefits such as SPF 23 (niche), glycerin and ester oil to hydrate and anti-ageing adenosine to fight cellular damage. While similar cushion compacts make up 40% of the cosmetics market in Korea, you’re unlikely to find the shade range that Lancôme brings to our western dressing tables. For a more budget option (Koreans more often than not refuse to pay premium prices; healthy competition keeps K-beauty prices down), Kiko CC Cream Cushion System, £15.50, boasts SPF 25 and imparts a healthy looking layer of coverage, although it only caters for caucasian skin.

FACIAL MASSAGE
Not technically a makeup trend, but Kenneth considers it a key factor in flawless makeup application. A cushion may allow for lightening-speed touch ups, but your foundation builds on the foundations you begin with…

“I’ve really taken on the facial massaging and face mask culture that’s part of the Korean skincare regime into my work as I find that it helps clients and models relax and helps to promote a clear, nourished complexion that receives makeup better. Smooth, well tended skin, makes makeup last longer and stay fresher, especially on the red carpet, and I need much less product to create a radiant and dynamic result.”

For tips on giving yourself a dreamy facial massage, follow expert facialist Teresa Tarmey’s lead.

JELLY TEXTURES
Are you ready for this jelly? Good, because makeup with a jelly texture is huge on streets of Seoul. With formulas that are light, bright and long-lasting, not to mention cooling, a jelly lip, cheek or eye product is as fresh as new season makeup could get. Topshop Cheek Jelly in Beep, £7, may look like it could stop traffic (never a bad thing), but is sheer and blendable with that oh-so-desirable mul-kwang-pi-bu (watery glow) finish. Other than good old Vaseline, our high street hasn’t quite caught up with the jelly textures otherwise, but you can stock up on all things wobbly in the beauty world at KoKo, an online store specialising in and supplying the most popular Korean products and brand names to the European market. Holika Holika Aqua Petit Jelly Eye Shadow, £10, is satisfyingly wibbly, with a water-based texture that brings down puffiness and colours that would delight your inner five year old. A nice change up from a smokey eye, speaking of which…

 

LOW-KEY EYE MAKEUP

There’s very little smoke to speak of in Seoul, in the eye makeup stakes at least. According to Soh, eye makeup is ‘minimal’; light shades of shadow, tight liner that hugs the upper lid and a few coats of mascara are about as far as definition goes. Mainly because the focus is on the following…

A GUTSY, GRADIATED LIP
Put the nude lip gloss down; Korean women let their mouths do the talking in more ways than one. The array of lip colours available on the average K-beauty counter is both blinding and extensive, and can be seen on the the street worn by teenagers and thirty-somethings alike. South Korean beauties don’t just stop at a bright lip either; one of the most popular ways to wear lip colour is in a ‘gradiated’ style, with a strong shade applied to the centre of lip fading out to a paler colour at the edges. If you’re feeling brave and inspired, smudge suitably strong red-orange MAC Sheen Supreme lipstick in Korean Candy, £16.50, at the centre of lips, blending into a lighter coral toned lipstick at the edges (try the also aptly named Fashion City).

PASTELS
Lavender blusher anyone? The Korean crowd go crazy for Disney princess pastels. Colours that can be tricky to acquire in the west, possibly for good reason at times, storm the shelves in South Korea, and peach, apricot and even lilac cheek tones often outsell the more traditional rose, according to the legendary makeup oracle that is Lisa Eldridge. For a nod to both the pastel and dewy complexion trend, experiment with Daniel Sandler Watercolour Liquid Blusher in Icing, £15.50. It ticks the sheer box and is appropriately sweet without swerving into teenybopper territory.

PLAYFUL PACKAGING
I take it back, it’s time to embrace the teenybopper thing. South Korean women may take their beauty regimes seriously, but they also appreciate their beauty staples with an accompanying GSOH and cute component. Just a quick browse of KoKo showcases typical zany Korean kitsch- it’s ‘never want to grow up’, Peter Pan packaging at it’s best. Benefit or Paul & Joe Beauty are about as close as you could come on our shores; Korean brands to covet are Etude House, Tony Moly and aptly named Too Cool for School.

SPF EVERYTHING
Unlike on our shores, Korean women rarely hanker for a tan. Pigmentation and sun damage are K-beauty’s biggest enemies, quite sensibly, and most women will go to great lengths to shade themselves from the sun. It’s a belt and braces approach; many women carry umbrellas to block out the sun’s rays and SPF in everything from eye shadow to face powder to lip gloss adds both a sun safety net and market value. Follow suit with Bare Minerals 5-in-1 BB Cream Eyeshadow, £17. It has all the BB benefits you’d expect from a face base in miniature. Crow’s feet can hop along.

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P&G Said to Kick Off Sale of Beauty Brands Including Wella

by Ed HammondRuth David & Alex Webb

Photographer: Wolfgang von Brauchitsch/Bloomberg

Procter & Gamble Co. has kicked off the sale of some of its beauty brands as the world’s biggest consumer-product maker seeks to shed laggard assets, people familiar with the matter said.
P&G has sent out sale documents to potential bidders for its Wella haircare unit, cosmetics brands and its fragrance business, according to the people, who asked not to be identified as the sale isn’t public. The businesses could be sold individually or combined, and could fetch as much as $19 billion altogether, said one of the people.
The company has reached out to potential buyers including Henkel AG, Revlon Inc., Unilever, Kao Corp., and Coty Inc., the people said. Officials at P&G, Henkel, Revlon, Coty and Kao declined to comment. Unilever didn’t immediately respond to requests to comment.
The sale is part of a plan, announced by Chief Executive Officer A.G. Lafley in August, to reinvigorate growth by divesting as many as 100 of the Cincinnati-based company’s slower-selling brands that account for about 10 percent of its $83 billion in revenue. The units on the block generate about $8 billion in annual sales and $1.5 billion in profit, Exane BNP Paribas estimates.
European Suitors
“P&G will likely announce the disposal of a meaningful part of its Beauty business over coming months,” Exane analyst Jeff Stent said in an April 8 note to clients. “European listed home- and personal-care companies will very likely be among the acquirers. We would be surprised if Henkel and Unilever do not acquire some assets.”
P&G rose 0.5 percent to $82.77 at the close in New York, giving it a market value of about $224 billion.
Alongside a potential sale, P&G is also exploring an initial public offering of some of its beauty brands, people with knowledge of the matter said in March. The troubled beauty division, which includes the Cover Girl, Max Factor, and Clairol brands, is now led by David Taylor, who expanded his responsibilities earlier this year as Lafley streamlines the business.
P&G has been working with Goldman Sachs Group Inc. on a possible sale of Wella since at least December, people familiar with the discussions said at the time. More than half of Wella’s $2.8 billion in revenue is generated from hair salons, a sales channel that has no connection with the rest of P&G’s business, Exane’s Stent said in the note. P&G is also considering selling part of the Wella business, one of the people said.
Henkel’s Resources
Dusseldorf, Germany-based Henkel, which owns Schwarzkopf shampoo, has as much as 4.5 billion euros ($4.9 billion) available for deals, and CEO Kasper Rorsted bought three U.S. haircare businesses last year. Henkel bought a 6.9 percent stake in Wella in March 2003, only to see P&G acquire most of the voting shares two weeks later. Wella was founded by German hairdresser Franz Stroher in 1880.
“We believe that the most likely acquirer is Henkel,” Stent said.
P&G’s cosmetics units Cover Girl and Max Factor have been hurt by a growing consumer preference for smaller brands, which can reach shoppers through online marketing, Stent said. Cover Girl’s market share in the U.S. has declined to 8.7 percent from 10.8 percent over the past five years, according to researcher Euromonitor.
‘Deep Pockets’
“If one wants to enter the beauty industry, one no longer requires sufficiently deep pockets to be able to fund mass market TV advertising,” Stent said.
Potential acquirers of the two cosmetics brands include Revlon, Coty and Kao, he said.
P&G has also been steadily losing market share in its fragrance business, which accounts for about $2.5 billion in sales and includes brands licensed by Hugo Boss, Dolce & Gabbana and Gucci. Lafley, who returned to lead P&G in 2013 after his hand-picked successor departed, criticized the business at a November analyst meeting, saying it performed better when it had just three or four brands rather than “20 plus.”
Other P&G divisions that could be candidates for sale include Braun, the maker of electric shavers and toothbrushes, Bloomberg News reported in November. Last year, P&G agreed to sell portions of the Camay and Zest soap brands to Unilever, and the Duracell battery business to Berkshire Hathaway Inc.

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Brazilian cosmetics market grew by 11% in 2014

Sales of toiletries, perfumes and cosmetics reached R$ 101.7 billion in 2014 in Brazil, according to the Brazilian Association of the Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Industry (ABIHPEC). The Brazilian cosmetics industry plays a key role in the Brazilian economy and represents more than 1.8% of the country’s GDP. Brazil is the third largest consumer market for cosmetics and other products related to beauty.

© Paul Matthew Photography / shutterstock.com

© Paul Matthew Photography / shutterstock.com

With sales of R$ 101.7 billion (USD 32.5 billion or EUR 29.6 billion), the sector recorded a nominal growth of 11% in 2014, compared to R$ 91.9 billion in 2013. “This performance is associated with important factors driving the country’s industry such as investment in innovation and advertising,” says João Carlos Basilio, President of the ABIHPEC.

World’s third largest market

Brazil remains the world’s third largest consumer market for toiletries, perfumes and cosmetics, behind the United States and China, and far ahead from Japan, which ranks fourth.

The Brazilian personal care industry represents more than 1.8% of the country’s GDP and 9.4% of the world’s consumption. As far as Latin America is concerned, Brazil’s market share exceeds 53%. “Without a doubt, Brazil is a major power in Latin America. The main customers for Brazilian exports of cosmetic products are Argentina, Chile, Venezuela, Mexico and Colombia, and hair products are the most exported ones,” adds João Carlos Basilio.

Product categories

The perfumery segment totalises more than R$ 17.1 billion (5.4 billion dollars or EUR 4.9 billion). While sales of deodorants reached R$ 11.5 billion.

The Brazilian population is becoming increasingly aware about risks linked to sun exposure, thus contributing to strong sales of sunscreen products, which reached R$ 4.1 billion (1.3 billion dollars or 1.2 billion euros) in 2014.Mintel estimates that the category will grow by 14% in 2015. “Although Brazil was already a leader in sunscreens, last year we expanded our leading position to the entire sun care category,” highlights João Carlos Basilio.

Among the main categories in which Brazil stands as the world’s 2nd largest consumer products are men’s, children’s and hair care products. During the last five years, children’s products achieved a compound average growth of approximately 14%, raising sales to R$ 4.5 billion in 2014. For instance, Brazil is the leading consumer of hair care products for children, representing 24% of world’s consumption.

Men’s grooming products account for almost 11% of the whole personal care consumption in Brazil. Sales doubled in size in the past five years and reached R$ 11.1 billion in 2014.

The performance of the hair care market was similar. Driven by hair conditioners, hair colours and shampoos, which together represent 90% of the hair segment, Brazil recorded net sales of R$ 21.2 billion in 2014 (6.8 billion dollars or 6.2 billion euros), an increase of 11% compared to 2013

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Beauty in the Hand of Leonardo

“Leonardo and the Ideal of Beauty,” which opens Wednesday at the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, has a blockbuster title and an unusually high concentration of drawings by Leonardo da Vinci. But it promises to be a small, thoughtful show. Its 11 Leonardos include a codex page concerned with the flight of birds that harbors a newly discovered self-portrait in red chalk and the acclaimed study for the angel in “The Virgin of the Rocks” that is almost a mini-lexicon of drawing techniques, refined to loose.

Also included will be 19 other drawings, most attributed to the master in concert with members of his workshop or to other Leonardeschi who adopted his style. And for further comparison there will be seven sheets by Michelangelo, that other peak of Renaissance achievement, who lived to help ring in the Baroque. All loans are from Italian institutions. Careful label-reading will reveal gradations and varieties of attribution. Careful looking could aid a much-needed understanding and revival of connoisseurship. (Through June 14, mfa.org.)

 

By

A version of this article appears in print on April 12, 2015, on page AR4 of the New York edition with the headline: Beauty in the Hand of Leonardo.

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